The 2009 Hayabusa – The Mods so Far

Hi all, I have been thinking about my Hayabusa and what I have done to it so far and I thought I would go through all the mods I have made and the pros and cons of them. Starting at the front and moving backwards:

  1. Front Tyre – The standard tyre for the Gen 2 is a Bridgestone BT015, but technology has moved on. I had tried a S20 front with a T30 rear, and was happy with it. When the front tyre wore out I went for a T30 front too, at first I thought I had made a huge mistake the bike felt wrong and nervous at the front. I thought about it for a bit and thought about the tyre pressures. The Busa is slightly funny with tyre pressures with 42psi front and rear for solo and dual riding, but that is for the standard sports tyres which are a lightweight construction while the BT30’s are sports touring tyres and of a heavier construction, so I experimented with a lower pressure. I tried 38psi front and 40psi rear and the Busa was back.
    Pros – Hopefully longing lasting and less chance of squaring off than the sports tyres
    Cons – Nothing that I have found so far now I have cracked the tyre pressure
  2. PFM Profiled Front Disc – I bought these discs secondhand, I think the original owner dumped them because of their main problem, they make your bike sound like crap at slow speeds. I am sure that some people think that something is falling off my bike as I ride past. The second problem with them is that they are very sharp, they are cut out with a laser I think and I think they missed a step of smoothing out the cut edge of the disc. When I wash the bike I usually end up with cuts on my hand from the edge of the disc.
    Pros – Fully floating brake disc, therefore better breaking
    Cons – Sounds like your bike is falling to bits as you ride past.
  3. Brembo Monoblock M4 Radial Brake Calipers – I bought these secondhand in very good condition. They seem to be nice and shiny and they stop the bike. To be honest I am sure the standard brakes were more than adequate for my riding. I do question the design of the brakes, as the bleed nipple is obscured by the banjo bolt, also the standard bleed nipples are mild steel, for the price of the brakes, I would of thought they would of been stainless steel. The bleed nipples were partly rounded off when I got the brakes, and they just got worse. I eventually replaced them with stainless steel ones.
    Pros – Look good, and are meant to be better than standard (I will never be good enough to know)
    Cons – Bleed nipples are mild steel as standard and are in a crap location.
  4. EBC HH Front Brake Pads – The pads work well and I am happy with them. Would I buy them again…. probably not. I usually use Bendix Supersport pads but these EBC’s came up cheap and I knew they would be OK. They seems to be working OK but when I was cleaning out the brakes the other day I noted that the pads were slightly blued (Over heating?)
    Pros – I got them cheap, they seem to be working
    Cons – Not Bendix…. (Weak con I know), some bluing of the pad material
  5. Hel brake lines – These were ordered through a friend who is a Hel braided line maker. I had to get them custom made as I had changed to a radial master cylinder and the banjo bolt comes out the master cylinder in a different plane to the standard master cylinder.
    Pros – All the braided hose benefits, fits fine
    Cons – The little yellow Hel labels on the hose get grubby easily
  6. K-Tech Front Suspension Springs – The standard springs on the Busa are a little weak much like most Japanese bikes, especially for me as I am somewhat over average wait. The K-Tech fork springs are a quality product at a good price and stiffer than standard.
    Pros – The right spring rate for the bike
    Cons – Pain to fit……. but all fork spring changes are a pain on upside down forks
  7. Silkolene 7.5wt Fork Oil – A worthwhile upgrade to improve the damping of the front forks. The forks on the Busa are under damped as standard so upping the weight of the fork oil is a way of masking this. It’s not a total fix but it definitely helps.
    Pros – Helps mask the weak damping of the front forks
    Cons – Not a real fix, but it does help.
  8. Helibars – Helibars raise the bars 41mm and move them back 12mm which doesn’t seem much but it does improve the comfort a lot. It’s surprising how little a change makes such a difference.
    Pros – Improves comfort
    Cons – Not cheap
  9. Brembo RCS19 Brake Master Cylinder – I brought this secondhand as a job lot with the Brembo front brake calipers. I am not totally impressed with the master cylinder, once you get past it’s a “Brembo” it’s not that impressive. The finish is average, for example the pin holding the lever in is showing signs of rust and the bleed nipple is poor quality mild steel. The Brembo hasn’t impressed me it doesn’t give me the feel that I like….. I am really thinking about changing it for a different make. I have taken the Master Cylinder apart and find that the seals are worn, the problem is that Brembo seals are not readily available.
    Pros – It’s a Brembo
    Cons – Doesn’t give the feel I like, the finish is poor
  10. Cheap Chinese Levers – I am a bit of a fan for these Pazzo copies that you can get on Ebay or Aliexpress. I have fitted them to many of my bikes and I have only had one or two problems that were very easy to sort. The nice thing about these levers is that they can allow adjustability to cable clutches, which is rare on standard bikes
    Pros – Look good, easy to adjust on the move, can allow adjustability on cable clutches
    Cons – Can be a little loose, sometimes do not fit without a little fettling, sometimes a bush off the original lever
  11. Steering Stem Ram Mount – I got this from Aliexpress from China and it was very cheap. I works perfectly and fits in the steering stem perfectly.
    Pros – Works perfectly, easy to fit
    Cons – None that I can see
  12. White LED Dashboard Lights – A friend of mine sells kits to fit LED lights into dashboards, this allows the colour of the lights to be changed. He wanted to borrow the Busa dash to work out the contents of the kit and to take some beauty shots. When he had finished he had left the white LED’s in. I was not sure at first and I wanted the orange lights back, however the white lights grew on me and now I think it looks way better than before.
    Pros – Looks good
    Cons – Need to split your clocks to fit the LED’s and sometimes you might need to do some soldering to fit the kit
  13. Chinese folding rear brake and gear change lever – I am a big chap and when I’m riding due to my big feet and my long legs my feet hang lower than the foot pegs. Therefore to be able to comfortably change gear and brake I have to have the levers hanging low and I worry (probably unnecessarily) that they might catch the road. These levers have sprung ends so they can’t catch and dig in. Also they are black, which is never a bad thing.
    Pros – Sprung end, they are black
    Cons – The hinge pin is steel and shows a little surface rust 
  14. Buell XB Footpegs – The standard footpegs on the Hayabusa are huge things with rubber tops and weights underneath. The standard foot position on the Busa is similar to a sports bike and with my long legs it gets very uncomfy. There is a mod to fit Buell XB footrests which drops the foot position by around 25mm. This doesn’t sound like much but it is a revelation. Weirdly it doesn’t reduce ground clearance as the standard footpegs are so chunky.
    Pros – More leg room, improved comfort
    Cons – No rubber tops on the pegs, says Buell on them  
  15. Re-foamed seats – On my first Hayabusa (a Gen 1 2004 Stealth model) I had the seats re-foamed by a local company. It was one of the first bike jobs he had done, he worked for his Dad in a reupholstry business and was branching out himself. It transformed the bike and made it a full fuel tank comfy. Surprisingly he added firmer foam, and some memory foam, this is because the original soft foam squashes down as you sit on it for a while and you end up sat on a solid mass and your bum hurts. I had the seats re-done for this Hayabusa and they were worse than standard!!! After a painful Scottish trip I got him to do them again and they are now much better. I have not had chance to try the seats on a long trip but I am sure that they will better than before (God I hope so!) and better than standard.
    Pros – Comfier seats, allows you to manage a full tank of fuel without crying in pain
    Cons – Not cheap, the seat looks slightly formless  
  16. Power Commander 5 – I got the Power Commander second hand in a job lot with the quick shifter and the Auto Tune. I really wanted to try the Auto Tune so the Power Commander had to be fitted. I did add a base tune that matched the exhaust and to be honest I didn’t really notice any difference but hopefully if I was just running the Power Commander it would ensure that the bike didn’t run lean or rich and there for was safer for the engine.
    Pros – Allows easy injection tuning, allows other kit to be added
    Cons – Not cheap, needs setting up on a dyno or Auto Tune, you need to know what you are doing
  17. Auto Tune – This is the reason I got the Power Commander 5 so that I could try using Auto Tune. Basically this hooks upto the Power Commander and an O2 sensor in the exhaust and it suggests what tune is best to hit the air:fuel mixture you have specified. The changes are saved to a file and you can review them after the ride and accept or change them to your hearts desire.
    Pros – Saves going to a dyno, you are in charge
    Cons – You need to know what you are doing, the software is not that easy, setting it up if you have an early one as it needs a blanking plug or it will not work
  18. Trans Logic Quick Shifter – I got a Dynojet quick shifter in a second hand package deal with the Power Commander 5 and the Auto Tune. However I could not get it to work properly. I think it was because the Hayabusa has 8 injectors and the Power Commander 5 only controls 4 unless you buy an additional module. So when the quick shifter cuts the fuel it only cuts the main 4 injectors, so when the secondary injectors kick in at around 5600rpm the engine is still running when you change gear albeit very lean. The quick shifter is set as a default to work from 3500rpm so you only have a small window for it to work. I took the control box apart to see if it was broken (before I worked out the secondary injectors issue) Inside the box there was a sticker with Trans Logic written on it. As Trans Logic make Quick Shifters I was intrigued and I contacted them (to help me with my problem) I spoke to a very helpful chap who explained that in the past Trans Logic used to make the control box for Dyno Jet. He explained that the Dyno jet stress sensor on the shift rod would work with a Trans Logic control box. In the end I agreed to buy a Trans Logic control box at a very discounted rate. The Quick Shifter works really well and it is so much fun to shift up through the gears without backing off a jot. One thing that I hadn’t thought about was that using the Quick Shifter gives the pillion a real easy ride, there is no jolting and therefore no head nodding or helmet clashing.
    Pros – Great fun, would improve your drag race time, gives pillion a better ride
    Cons – Need to be firm with your gear change, if you do not get it in gear properly first time it makes a horrible noise and probably knackers your gearbox
  19. R77 4 into 1 Yoshimua Exhaust – I brought exhaust as it had the right size port for the O2 sensor for the Auto-Tune and it makes more power and looks cool. Well the O2 port was the wrong size, I have no idea if it makes more power, but it does look cool and probably saves about 3000kg in weight over the original. I bought the right size bung and had it welded on. Fitting was easy, though weirdly it does not use any exhaust gaskets. I was told that the exhaust would work with my panniers too……… which is untrue (sort of) when I fitted the panniers the exhaust was so close to the bottom of the pannier I was worried it would melt it. I made a little bracket that I fit that lowers the exhaust when I have the panniers fitted. As the exhaust is all held together with springs it flexes far enough to not cause a problem
    Pros – Looks cool, sounds cool, save weight, may make more power
    Cons – The O2 sensor housing is the wrong size for auto tune, it gets very close to the panniers if fitted normally, changing the oil filter is extra difficult due to access issues
  20. R & G Rear Tail Tidy – The design of the Gen 2 Busa allows the long plastic rear mudguard to be removed fairly easily, 4 bolts if I recall and with the indicators in the rear seat unit there is only the number plate light to worry about. The R&G tail tidy fitted reasonably well though the holes in my existing number plate were wider than the R&G tail Tidy so I had to make some little brackets to make it fit. I eventually bought a new number plate and I drilled the holes to suit. One weird thing about the R&G tail Tidy, is that it has a little red reflective sticker so that it complies with the MOT test but it is mostly hidden by the rear light (Newer ones don’t even seem to have it at all) also the number plate light is so bright it can blind following riders. The housing fell apart so I took the opportunity to put a bit of opaque plastic over the led to tone it down a bit.
    Pros – Looks so much better, lighter
    Cons – No visible reflector, LED number plate light is super bright 
  21. Pyramid Hugger – I fitted this so long ago (nearly 10years) that I cannot remember anything interesting about it. It fits and it stops crap going all over the rear shock. The only negative I can think about it is the styling is a little dated, it doesn’t stand out or anything.
    Pros – Works as a hugger, made in Lincolnshire
    Cons – Styling a little staid
  22. SW Motech EVO Side Carriers – I had these carriers on my Gen 1 Busa. They are a very good bit of kit, a bit ugly when fitted but can be removed really easily and quickly with a big screwdriver and when removed the brackets are hardly noticeable. The racks are approved by the German MOT equivalent and therefore have a indicator relocation mount on the rear cross brace. I never used the mount as the Indicators are mostly visible, just not that great from more than 45 degrees to the side. Unfortunately the indicator brackets foul the number plate if you have a tail tidy like I do. I managed for a while with the brackets pushing at the back of the number plate before I succumbed and cut them off.
    Pros – Nicely designed bit of kit, not too ugly when fitted (with no panniers) very unobtrusive when removed, easy to remove
    Cons – Expensive, you have to buy the racks and then a fitting kit, indicator bracket can foul number plate if tail tidy fitted
  23. SW Motech Luggage Rack Alu-Rack – This rack allows the fitting of a rack that allows a topbox to be fitted. The rack by itself almost looks like a spoiler when fitted, the top box rack connects quickly and only needs a big screwdriver.
    Pros – Looks Ok on the bike without the top box rack fitted
    Cons – Expensive, fitting takes a while

About The Author


Ambitious Amateur Mechanic, with a slight (OK not slight) Suzuki bias